72 Hours in Isles of Scilly - a Local's Guide

As we emerge out of lockdown 3.0 and start looking for ways to escape the everyday whilst keeping safe and being responsible, it’s easy to look past the fact we have some wild adventures right here on home turf.

We don’t have to travel to snow capped mountains or dense jungles to get off the beaten track and avoid the crowds. There’s some truly remote parts of the UK that have been left untouched but can be found with a bit of research.

My favourite place - and somewhere I have been drawn back to again and again over the years - is the Isles of Scilly. This little cluster of islands off the Cornish coast is honestly somewhere I consider a genuine hidden gem of the UK. It’s so unspoilt and it’s an adventure seekers paradise. From island hopping by SUP or kayak, coasteering, snorkelling with wild seals, hiking and cycling and open water swimming as well as miles of white, sandy beaches - it’s got it all. So much so, I dedicated two chapters of my paddle boarding guide book to routes on the Isles of Scilly.

Last time I visited was in August 2020 as part of Visit England’s Escape the Everyday campaign. I spent three days paddling, swimming and eating my way round the islands. I felt reassured taking a break to the Isles of Scilly and made sure I checked the ‘We’re Good to Go’ industry standard. So with restrictions easing and ideas for getaways are in full swing, the Isles of Scilly is something to add to the mix.

I’ve made a local’s guide to visiting Isles of Scilly. It’s based on all my favourite experiences and insiders tips on all the important stuff, like quiet spots to catch catch the best sunsets!

HOW TO GET TO ISLES OF SCILLY

The SkyBus leaves daily from Land’s End, Exeter and Newquay starting from £95.25 one way. It takes just 15 minutes to reach the Isles of Scilly from Land’s End but this varies depending on departure location. The passenger ferry - known as the Scillonian - leaves daily and costs around £125 pp return. It’s a good option if you’re carrying sports equipment or camping gear as the weight restrictions on the SkyBus are fairly tight. The other option is the helicopter - a novel and quick way to reach the islands (it takes 15 minutes) but it’s the most costly option. Or, if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, a handful of people have successfully paddle boarded the 28 mile journey from mainland to the islands in recent years.

More details at Isles of Scilly Travel and Visit Isles of Scilly

WHERE TO STAY

There’s nothing like ‘roughing it’ at a camp spot on Isles of Scilly and with four sites dotted across St. Mary's, St. Agnes, Bryher and St. Martin’s, each has it’s unique charm from beachfront and hilltop to exposed to the elements. My favourite? Bryher campsite and its exquisite hilltop views overlooking the water.

On my last visit I stayed at Mincarlo. An understated and charming bed and breakfast with sea views situated on St Mary’s Town Beach. Owners Nick and Bryony also host Adventure Scilly retreats in yoga, wellness and wild swimming. There’s a lot of self-catering options as well as luxurious five star getaways at hotels like Star Castle on St Mary’s, Karma Resort on St Martin’s.

GETTING ON THE WATER

Clear waters, white, sandy beaches, sheltered bays, tropical climates (most of the time) and no crowds. If that’s not the recipe for a good time on the water, then I don’t know what is. The waters surrounding these islands are a paddle boarders dream. In fact, they are fast becoming something of a mecca for all water sports enthusiasts. Depending on tides, swimmers can race between islands and exploring from the water on SUPs or Kayaks gives an entirely new perspective. There’s seal snorkelling experiences (all wild seals, no feeding and only one small boat a day goes to see them out towards the Eastern Isles so don’t expect hoards of tourists either. If you want to hire kit you can visit Scilly Sailing on St Mary’s who have lots of great local knowledge and St Martin’s Water sports on St Martin’s.

WAYS TO GET AROUND 

Rented golf buggies are commonplace as a mode of transport on these islands as are electric and standard bikes on St Mary’s. These are also available on Tresco and a brand-new hop on electric bus service is also under development and will be ready to service visitors from 2021.  Taking this approach is ideal if you’re doing an off-island day trip (recommended for a 72-hour break) as it means covering more ground in less time so you can get a much fuller experience. 

 Talking of day trips, St Mary’s Boating Association has services that run daily serving all the islands. It’s important to check tides and timings as this change frequently (the website is updated with this info). St Martin’s is my favourite island, and it has some of the world’s (yes, world’s) most beautiful beaches.

STEP BACK IN HISTORY

There’s a huge amount of history attached to Scilly as it played a key role in the English Civil War back in 1600s. Take a stroll up to the extensive coastal fortification – known as the Garrison - on St Mary or head to the remains of Cromwell’s Castle on Tresco which looks out on the channel towards Bryher. On a spring tide you can walk across. 

STRETCH YOUR LEGS

Over 50% of Scilly is looked after by the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, giving nature the space to thrive and visitors to enjoy. That’s 678 hectares  There’s countless island walks to enjoy and the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust has been working hard to make routes both accessible and beautiful. Throughout the islands you will stumble across unmanned shops and stalls selling local goods. The tradition here is to pay honestly by leaving money equal to the value of goods at the stall. Honesty shops continue to be a big part of island life and this trusting relationships between tourists and locals is what makes this place so special.

There’s also the Tresco Abbey Gardens to stroll around and overload the senses with some of the rarest flora and fauna found in England thanks to the islands position on the Gulf Stream and its generally milder climates.

ADDED EXTRAS:

BEST VIEW: Sunset the top of the Garrison on St Mary’s.  

LOCAL INSIGHT: Pilot gig racing is a heritage on Scilly and remains a big part of island life. Watch the locals compete every Sunday evening from the Quay on St Mary’s. 

WI-FI: Although this place is best enjoyed without the distraction of technology, the Isles of Scilly island is very well connected and in July 2020 was one of the first regions in the UK to pilot 5G. 

A FINAL NOTE:

If you’re planning to take a short break and looking for some inspiration check out Visit England’s guidance on getting away responsibly. And when you’re out and about in England follow the countryside code - respect everyone around you, protect the environment and enjoy the great outdoors and make it an enjoyable experience for everyone.